BESPOKE LONDON meets DUBAI COUTURE

Bespoke – from Dubai to London

The Silk Devore Evening Dress By Coral Turner

One of the many pleasures of bespoke work for me, are the people I get to meet, in this case the lovely fashionista Noora, a woman who has a flair for fine quality fabrics and a discerning eye for fashion.  All of which makes couture sewing an absolute pleasure.

Our conversation started as it normally does with me wanting to learn about the client, have they had a bespoke garment made before, what was their experience?  In turn the client learns about my background and how I work. It was all very animated, as when talking about fashion, sewing and designing I am in my element, equally Noora’s enthusiasm, her knowledge of design, fabrics, and attention to detail had me even more excited about the making of her couture evening dress, which we would discuss in more detail on arrival in London with her chosen fabric.

At our consultation meeting Noora bought with her the most gorgeous deep navy blue silk devore, the burnt-out ornate design harked back to the etchings of the Victorian era.

 Silk Devore Fabric

 We discussed the occasion for this evening dress that could be worn for a variety of functions: the length, it was to be floor length, the style lines, semi-fitted, the sleeves, Bishops style, that billow from the height of the cuff creating volume. However, before any of this was translated into the main fabric, having taken the relevant measurements, then drafting the pattern, a toile is made first; this applies to all of my couture/bespoke work.

 The toile - long evening dress

We then moved onto our first fitting, it is at this point where the client can see how her finished garment will look; the fit of the dress along with comfort is my number one priority.  It’s important to have ease for movement, that the style lines compliment the wearer in the words of Madame Vionnet “The dress must not hang on the body but follow its lines.  It must accompany its wearer, and when a woman smiles the dress must smile with her” – how true.

Adjustments are then made on the toile which will then be relayed to the main pattern, sometimes depending on the adjustments, a second toile is necessary and further fitting required, but this was not the case.

 Toile with required adjustments

Having transferred all of the changes to the drafted pattern, and pattern pieces I can now begin the process of cutting out the evening dress in the beautiful silk devore fabric.  Due to the nature of the fabric having a translucent effect in the burnt out areas it was necessary to interline the fabric using silk lining, the luxury just goes on and on.

I learnt that the women of Dubai are considerable connoisseurs’ of bespoke garments; their individuality is expressed through design, which is the nature of such work.  Whilst the industrial era of the 1800’s was to the change the landscape of Britain across the board, with mass production clothing, there would always be those for whom bespoke garments and the personalisation that is it’s hallmark, being for them the only way to dress still remains.

Moving onto the finer detail, the inside of the garment looking as beautiful as the exterior is always paramount, not only does this add support and structure to a garment, but for me it is a deep respect for the fabric.

 Inside finish of the silk devore dress

 

It now remains for a further fitting of the dress, again we look at the fit, we examine movement, try on with shoes.  Speaking of shoes, Noora had the most divine pair of high-heeled black suede shoes with a bow, they were so alluring that had it not been for her dainty small size, and that I personally would have struggled with the height of the heels, they would have been kidnapped and happily have a home in my wardrobe, no ransom paid!

  Work in progress: ready for fitting

It’s also at this stage that we look at the finishing touches, such as buttons, we chose a diamante flower which captures the light.  

The godet centre back detail, transforms the column    style of the dress.

With fine couture secrets to add volume!

       

Work in progress: one sleeve tacked into place

Back at my studio, the evening dress now goes through her final paces, all the silk tacking thread removed on completion, a gentle press, an overall check, it’s at this stage that I, and the garment I have come to love, get ready to part company for her new home. 

It’s the day of the final fitting, as I remove the evening dress from her garment bag, Noora’s face lights up, the gorgeous suede shoes come out again to wink at me before disappearing under the floor length dress. The diamante buttons are closed on the cuff, the voluminous sleeve stands proud, the centre back godet swirls with movement, as Noora walks elegantly across the floor.  Noora smiles, I smile, the dress smiles – it’s time to say goodbye....

www.coralturner.co.uk

The Power of a Dress

Dressing up - and looking your loveliest, isn't for me based on special occasions only, everyday, in my books is truly special.

The personal armor that we all wear, is about helping us to stand tall and confident, elegant and regal, our inner foibles we have to work on, but our clothing can give us a head start.

Interestingly, in the case of a woman's wardrobe, no one garment has caused such a stir throughout time, and to this day other than 'The Dress'. 

The dress whose construction can be a myriad of style lines, or simplicity of cut which lets the fabric do the talking, contains within 'her' the power to turn heads, start a conversation or stop one, 'the dress' - the right dress that is, does exactly that.

A dress of elegance is a quietly confident style, it doesn't shout at you because she doesn't need to, you will come to her.  Softness and frills don't have to imply being submissive, femininity is a strength to be celebrated.

The fabric's used for dresses, they too have their part to play, the fluidity of liquid silk, frolics with the sensuous shaping of the body especially when cut on the bias; jersey fabrics cling, drape and move with your contours and looks amazing in both day and evening wear.

That special dress is usually the number one factor at weddings, but wait, what about that first date, evening cocktails after work, a weekend away, office parties, a black tie event, the red carpet... the list continues to build.

Even the tomboy of a lady, has people doing a double-take when seen wearing a dress, there was a reason the fairy Godmother stepped in and said to Cinderella 'you shall go to the ball', and then the transformation took place. 

Dresses, long, maxi, short, midi, have been head turners throughout the centuries, and will continue to be so.

Coral Turner - Couture Designer

Going Out On The Town Couture Style- What to wear to London's hottest events this July.

By Coral Turner, Couture Designer

One of the many privileges of living in London is that it is a cultural hub for the arts with a wonderful offering of galleries, plays, music events and exhibits. The question becomes, which one to visit first?

Because the options are so diverse and so many, I decided to provide a short list of my favourite events for the month of July, along with my recommendations in terms of fashion picks for each occasion. Here we go . . .

La Rondine, at the Royal Opera House. Who doesn’t love a love-triangle drama? Giacomo Puccini’s opera La Rondine relates the story of the beautiful Magda, who falls in love with the younger, handsome and naive Ruggero at the same time she remains indebted to her older lover, Rambaldo.

Russian Doll

You will have to get tickets to see what happens to Magda, but my Russian Doll dress is a ravishing choice for the event. The Russian Doll, set on a pale blue background, features deep blue rose flowers that come to life with Russian dolls thrown into the mix, complemented by tiny flecks of gold jersey fabric for great stretch and structure. The dress has a high neck with scarf detail that can be tied as a pussy bow or left free as a scarf. Hand-finished edging and glass turquoise beads add the finishing touch to the scarf detail. A high thigh slit gives the Russian Doll high-fashion appeal. Add a fabulous pair of shoes and matching handbag, and you will surely be a stunner at the event. Further, no one else will be wearing it––the Russian Doll is a one-of-a-kind, exclusive couture dress from my online store!

La Rondine is playing until July 21.

Eastern Promise

A Season in the Congo, at the Young Vic. This play is about the Congo’s 1960 rebellion against Belgian rule. Award-winning director Joseph Wright (Anna Karenina, Atonement, Pride & Prejudice) directs this electrifying and critically acclaimed musical. According to The Guardian, “Joe Wright is the hottest property in Hollywood” and “[o]ne of the best British actors of his generation. . . . Chiwetel Ejiofor has the acting world at his mercy.” This is a must-see!

The high drama of this musical calls for a dress with a significant daring factor.  The Eastern Promise fits the bill. This jersey mini-dress is sleek, bold and sexy. For a more demure look, it combines swimmingly with a great pair of my cigarette pants as a tunic blouse. This mini-dress is an elegant mix of bold colours––lime green, sky blue and yellow––set on a white background with a distinctive detail fitted with mock snakeskin basque, metal eyelets and a suede ribbon tie front that cinches at your waistline. The shrug’s billowing kimono sleeves add dynamism to the dress, and the tapered, lined skirt provides additional support.

Again, the Eastern Promise is an exclusive, one-of-a-kind dress perfect for you and this fantastic play.

Floral Infusion

Mexico: A Revolution in Art, at the Royal Academy of Arts. Mexico underwent significant political changes from 1910 to 1920, which have been reflected in the country’s art. The Royal Academy is currently hosting an exhibit of this period’s art, including pieces from the famed Diego Rivera. A visit to the exhibit would make for a great afternoon outing that could only be followed by a fabulous dinner.

This type of occasion requires a dress that is both glamorous and sophisticated—the Floral Infusion certainly fits this description. The Floral Infusion, designed of floral greens that create the illusion of camouflage, features a drop shoulder and stand collar. It sensually skims the body in all the right places; the skirt falls just above the knee to reveal a peek of legs, which are quickly hidden again by a waterfall hem detail.

Combined with a great pair of strappy, neutral heels, the Floral Infusion is a sure bet. Mexico: A Revolution in Art is on until September 29.

Happiness

Club to Cat Walk: London Fashion in the 1980’s at the Victoria and Albert Museum. I’m sure a fashion exhibition on the list comes as a surprise! This great exhibition pays homage to the 1980s in all aspects from big shoulder pads to leotards. The Guardian describes it as “a period of creativity, eccentricity and outlandish looks.” Club to Cat Walk is a fun exhibit and––for some us––a trip down memory lane.

So what’s the best pick to wear to such an exhibit? Happiness!

This dress, featuring an abstract jersey print of flowers set on a white background, just exudes the feeling that inspires its name. Beautiful to the touch, it has a hand-finished fitted V-neck that makes statement jewelry come alive. The white background emanates sheerness, but the basque and sexy tapered skirt is lined, for an uber chic look. The illusion doesn’t stop there––more drama is created with Kimono-style shrug sleeves.

This one-of-a-kind dress is sure to please any ’80s-inspired fashionista and is ideal for an evening visit to the exhibit followed by a late-night dinner at a favourite restaurant.

Well, there you have it—my short list of fun events and great couture designs to complement an afternoon or evening out.

Handwoven silk scarves

And don't forget to add one of my handwoven silk scarves to compliment any of your style pics.

As always, I would be thrilled to meet with you and design and create a one-of-a-kind couture garment for any occasion you may have on your calendar.

A Pure Silk Scarf

Biscuit Coloured Silk Scarf with Brown Silk

By Coral Turner, Couture Designer

Silk is nature’s tribute to beauty. Soft, sensual, exotic, a delight for the designer, it makes every woman feel beautiful; within herself, and for the beholder.

Silk a luxurious fibre that has been synonymous with status and wealth; produced through the wonders of nature, by the humble silk-worm in 18^th century Britain a man’s dress sense was equally as flamboyant as his female counterpart and  bright coloured silks were considered the norm. 

Blue Silk Scarf

Legend has it, that silk was discovered 4,000 years ago by a Chinese princess when a cocoon dropped from a mulberry tree into her tea, and as it softened she was able to reel off a strong fibre from the cocoon, that fibre was silk.  It has been the choice of many Imperial subjects throughout the centuries, and is still one of the fabrics of choice today.

Throughout varying countries, in days of old the transformation of silk fibres into fabric through the process of hand-weaving on looms has been an artisan craft, handed down from generation to generation, one such country is India.

Red Silk Scarf

Whilst a lot of silk is manufactured in factories, there are still villages where silk is produced in the home in particular silk scarves which can take weeks to produce one single scarf.

With my love for fine fabrics I applaud such dexterous work, and the finished results always leave me in awe of the maker.  I have recently had the good fortune to be working with someone who brings nature’s bounty to us in the spirit of fair practices and with the belief that nature meant that its riches be shared by all. It's also a tribute to the skills of the craftsmen that they have passed on their art over the centuries; they believed that their reward lay in the beauty of what they had designed.  

Silk Latte Colour and Brown Silk Scarf

It’s not just the lustrous beauty of a silk scarf, but also its practicality in both warm and cold weather, and universal appeal to both the sexes.  The silk scarf draped around a man’s jacket whether for a night out at the theatre or as part of his general attire, is also the same protector worn as a stole over a woman’s shoulder’s whilst wearing a couture garment (by of course yours truly Coral Turner), the gentle drape of the silk scarf adds to the overall look of a garment.  

Tied in a variety of fashions, coupled with its spectrum of rainbow colours the silk scarf is a staple wardrobe piece that everyone can experience, it’s one of the simplest of ways to look and feel sensational.

You can view 100% silk scarves on my website http://www.coralturner.co.uk, under Accessories.

 (Photography of silk scarves by Minna Rossi http://www.minnarossi.com) 

Ways to Make Your Apparel Look Stylish

Purple Lady

By Coral Turner, Couture Designer

You may not be a fashionista, but you don't have to be one to stand out and make a fashion statement. As couture designer, I want to provide you with a few suggestions that can be incorporated into any wardrobe.

A ring and a necklace dress up any outfit but make sure these two pieces of jewelry complement each other. Every woman should have several rings and necklaces as accessories as well as earrings. 

Let's use an example of a jeans outfit. The blouse could be solid colour, like orange. Next consider your biggest piece of jewelry - the necklace. With jeans, a sporty-type of necklace made of shells or beads over the solid colour blouse will look striking. It's nice to incorporate the colour of the blouse into the necklace although solid white will do just as well. A sporty ring will be a nice accent if you can follow through with the colors in the necklace and don't mix gold and silver. For sporty outfits, leave the diamond dinner ring in the jewelry box. The same thing with any noisy jewelry. For cooler nights, you can replace that necklace with a scarf. Long scarfs are very popular now. If wearing a scarf, find a chic knot.

Coming Soon To Coral Turner Couture
Scarves!

For more formal affairs, a hat adds a flair of glamour. If your hair is long, take the curl out and wear it straight down or pin it up in a bun or French twist. You want the hat to stand out, not your golden locks. The hat should match a colour in your outfit. A black and white outfit and a black hat are bound to turn a few heads. A hat with chiffon, a feather, or piece of jewelry adds excitement. You can always add your own pin to that hat too; so go ahead and raid your mother’s vintage pins. 

A print blouse with a solid coloured sweater always looks attractive. Next time you wear that long sleeve sweater, consider folding the cuffs back to expose the cuffs of the blouse. 

If you still have a long ankle-length skirt hanging in your closet, before you toss it, perhaps you should consider giving it a second life. Cut off twelve inches and hem it. Voila! A new item for your wardrobe.  Pair it with a crisp white collar shirt and black and silver studded belt and you are good for the office and drinks after a hard days work. 

Happiness

No fashion blog would be complete without the mention of shoes. In general, have your shoes match your clothing if you are conservative in your taste.  However, if you are daring go ahead and use them as an accessory to the outfit.  I love animal patterned shoes of late, they add fun to any outfit as well as they are sexy and daring and there is nothing wrong with being a little sexy and daring.

If unsure about accessories, less is more. If you use too many accessories, nothing will stand out to make a statement, so keep it simple.  Also, it is okay to buy those fashion magazines where they have the models stylized to get ideas.  I also love a website called Stylish Eve at www.stylisheve.com.  They search the globe and put together outfits for day or night, formal and casual.  I’m not sure why they haven’t picked up my couture fashions yet???  However, I cannot help but love the outfits they stylize.  

By following the suggestions above, you'll begin to impart your own style and people will notice, and don't forget the perfume.  

One last note, I am available to help you create and design your own look.  I make one of a kind, never to be repeated couture designs for the modern woman and I am happy to offer  my services to you.

Fashion with a Conscious

Coral Turner Couture Original

By Coral Turner

By this time, you have all heard of the tragedy that took place in Bangladesh where a clothes manufacturing building collapsed, killing 1,129 people. The tragedy sparked worldwide condemnation about the shoddy business practices that ultimately led to the deaths of so many innocent people. But, in the aftermath, this incident has also sparked questions regarding the link between cheap fashion and worker safety.

Coral Turner Couture Original

There are many who love the thrill of bargain shopping. They are the great hunters who find the best deals on pickles, socks and all other things consumable; nothing wrong with that in theory, who doesn’t love a bargain?  But the question now becomes ‘who is really paying the price so you can get an £8.00 hoodie for your teenage son?’

I’m not a huntress. But that goes with the territory of being a couture designer—and working in the fashion houses, I began to realize that a deal is not actually a deal. It really means that someone else is not getting paid or is working in deplorable conditions.

Coral Turner Couture Original

The United Kingdom was once infamous for garments made to a high standard, in terms of workmanship, fabrics and finish. You only had to mention the names of certain key players and they were synonymous with workmanship of pedigree.

Coral Turner Couture Original

I appreciate that it is just not UK retailers that outsource their garment manufacturing to developing countries—the United States, Canada, France and many more do as well, but as a consumer, you do have a say on whether or not you will support substandard working conditions for those who work in developing countries. It is a question for your conscience. It is question for all of us because these people also manufacture our Smartphones, furniture, golf clubs, etc.

Coral Turner Couture Original

My heart goes out to those families who are left to pick up the pieces from a tragedy that was based on profit first, people somewhere down the line - eventually.  It is a shame it took the lives of so many people before it became an issue.

Coral Turner Couture Original

I want to assure you that my clothes are handmade by me, including all the embellishment work. I source my fabrics from ethical manufacturers. My clothes have a price attached to them to reflect the quality of workmanship, the fabric and the couture design. In my time on this planet and in good conscious I  work at being part of the solution to those things I see that ail humanity, equally I have strong beliefs in providing a luxury product that will last forever.

Style Tips For Your Summer Get A Away.

By Coral Turner, Couture Fashion Designer

As we spring into summer, it is the time when most of us, hopefully, will be jetting off to some exotic, romantic, or adventurous land to relax, rejuvenate, and even a learn a thing or two about a different culture. However, packing for our adventures has become more difficult, with tight controls on luggage weight, additional and expensive baggage fees, and increased airport security. That is why my one-of- kind jersey couture designs are ideal for your travel needs.

It is great to look stylish while in transit, but avoid wearing jewelry and heavy accessories. Keeping accessories to a minimum will make going through the airport security checkpoints much easier. Moreover, keep your clothing options limited to fabrics that will breathe and move with your body and that won’t become a wrinkled mess after you sit for a few hours like a jersey fabric (that I happen to use).

When selecting your wardrobe for your trip, you will need to ensure that they are suitable to the type of trip which is obvious. If you are doing an African safari, you are going to want clothes that are light, and airy. If you are doing a museum tour through the South of France, you will want your look to be more sophisticated and tailored. If you are taking a cruise on a cruise line like Silver Seas, you are going to need to need a formal attire. Silver Seas’ dinners are formal and require formal attire for dinner. In the case of Silver Sea where there are no more than 250 people on the ship, you will need a dress for every evening. If you are traveling on a guided tour, you should expect at least one evening of formal dressing for dinner.

Rosetta

This is why I love jersey fabrics. You can create formal dresses like Rosetta or Russian Doll that can be worn to any formal dinner. And what makes them ideal  is they are easy to pack. Further, if you need to wear the garment twice, they can be hand washed in a basin and hung to dry. I am would love to assist you in developing your wardrobe. 

Russian Doll

Then there is the bathing suit—usually torture for most women when it comes to buying one. If this is the case, I strongly recommend that you go to a place that sells bathing suits and understands body shapes. For the rest of you, my quick style tips are as follows:

• If you are curvy, you want to look at bathing suits that have subtle ruching that will accentuate your curves.

• If you are petite, you want to see high-cut bottoms to give your legs length. 

• A bikini is appropriate for a tall girl, to break up the long torso. Don’t forget to get that perfect cover up. 

I personally like sheer, large, rectangular scarves in complementing colours to a bathing suit. They can be tied at the bust line and draped or folded in half and then tied around your hips to cover your buttocks and upper thighs. All you need after that is a great pair of sandals, a marvelous hat, and effective sunscreen to be ready for your beach or poolside vacation.

Whether you spend your holidays at home or traveling abroad, I would love to help you in your wardrobe planning and make you fall in love with the versatility of jersey fabrics and couture design. Don't forget to shop at my online store.

Have a safe and wonderful summer!